Kyoto - Hiroshima

On Easter-Sunday I set off from Kyoto towards Nara and Osaka. The weather was relatively bad, that is, some raindrops here and there and definitely not a lot of sunshine, but I couldn't really be bothered: I was happy to be back on the bike! An insanely steep climb (and descent) made my day, which ended in a rather crowded park where I almost kept it dry the entire night. Milestone: I passed the 1000km-total cycling distance today!

Monday, April 21st, 5:40AM, happy birthday me! Already a lot of Japanese folks strolling through the park I slept in, man they are early risers over here! I wasn't too fond of all the strange looks that my bike and sleeping gear attracted, so headed off for a McDonald's breakfast in town (Akashi, to be specific). After a bit of single track-mountainbiking (fun but tricky, and yet again STEEP) a friendly old Japanese man that I met on the way offered me some rice crackers and a Yakult-drink, so I even got an actual birthday present! :D I reached Himeji around 11:15 and despite the large reconstruction works decided to take a look inside the castle. Tourist in tights and smelly cycling jersey, way to go! Lunch, and off to the ferry boat to the island of Shodo-shima. Although it has stopped raining, I am not in the mood for cycling much more hills, so pitch my tent in the backdrop of a little temple and call it an early day around 16:30.

Cycling on Shodo-shima is amazing! Relatively little traffic and stunning views, combined with some nice climbs and descents. But then, the first technical challenge! Somehow one of the bolts keeping my back-carrier upright has gone missing and I find it turning 90 degrees after a little bump. Luckily the bolts attaching my mud guards have the same size and they can do with a tie-wrap, because I naturally don't have any spare bolts. Some 10 minutes later I mumble "ajeto!" and hop back on the bike. Problem solved! Then the real climbing starts, and two hours later I reach the viewpoint of the Kan Ka Kei, where busloads of tourists stare at me d my bike as if I were an alien, bit seem to be intrigued. Going downhill is chilly but rewarding, and after having seen a huge peacock I also meet some monkeys on the way down (and managed to take some pictures!). On the ferry I meet some of the staring tourists and try to chat with them, with varying success. In Takamatsu I hop off and start cycling to what is possibly my best sleeping spot so far: the corner of a playground in a local large sports park, with a little roofed 'veranda' AND an awesome slide!!

My bum mildly protests when I mount my bike the next day and the start-up is slow, the motivation-level is relatively low. After 2 hours of hard but slow riding I decide to treat myself and go for a good cup of coffee and some cake. While studying the Lonely Planet, I figure that if I reach Matsuyama tonight (100km from where I then am), I can enjoy one of the most famous Onsen in Japan. That is appealing, so I get back on the bike and although I am still slow (thank you mr. headwind) the km's steadily keep ticking away.
The Onsen indeed is great and hot, and it is wonderful to wash away all the sweat and dirt from 4 days of riding. Again a playground for sleeping tonight, although the slide remains unbeaten.

April 24th, time to hop on to the Shimanami Kaido! That is, after a horrendous 50km of raging headwind, which deflates the spirit somewhat. Luckily all is forgotten when cycling onto the first bridge: separate bicycle lanes with superb asphalt and stunning views. The islands and bridges nicely alternate, and the weather also joins in the fun by making the beaches and nature look even more tropical in the broad sunlight.
The last water to be crossed is again a ferry, bit this time a short one. Although the Honshu-side of the inland sea is definitely more crowded and built full with harbours, I manage to find a relatively quiet sleeping spot with a nice view on the sunset.

There is only 100km to reach Hiroshima from Onomichi, so I will have a relatively short day! Some hills along the way and burning sun, but I park my bike in the Peace Memorial Park exactly at lunchtime, 1PM. Yes!
The tourist information center helps me to find a hostel, and I decide to take it easy the rest of the day.

Saturday, April 25th: I have cycled just under 1700km now, and am in for a little break. Saturday consists of resting, eating and running errands (new slick outer tires and less excessive weight!), all the tourist attractions can wait another day. ;)
If I find a computer somewhere I will upload some more pictures and try to get my route on the web. Cheerio!